Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Fruit of the Week: Saskatoon berry


Name: Saskatoon berry or serviceberry

Brand: Canada's

Place of Purchase: Dahl's, Ankeny, Iowa

Country/Region of Origin: Canada

Price in Iowa: $5 for a tin of jam

Description: bright blue berries resembling blueberries

Flavor: Very sweet. A combination of grape and huckleberry, with interesting wine notes as an aftertaste.

Aroma: sweet grape

Texture/Mouth-feel: juicy, seedy like blueberry

Notes: This fruit is uniquely-flavored, but trends among the berries. Many of the flavors are starting to resemble each other. Perhaps it has something to do with the high levels of vitamin C and anthocyanins? Maybe I should see if there are similar flavors to be found in red cabbage? Anyhoo, saskatoon berries were super sweet, winey and close to huckleberry. Considering that it is a hardy plant, most people in the Great White North rely on the "serviceberry" to add a bit of sweetness to their lives. I'm actually thinking about taking a trip up to Saskatchewan next year during harvest time.


I had to get the jam to try this fruit. With Fall here I'm beginning to realize that finding fresh fruit is going to be a challenge. The down-side to this is that I'm stockpiling a lot of jams. So, I've decided to start making tarts. No reason for good preserves to go to waste.

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Cheese of the week: Ridder



Name: Ridder

Place of Purchase: Wheatsfield Co-Op at 413 Douglas in Ames, Iowa

Country of Origin: Norway (Tine Brand)

Price in Iowa: $7.99/lb

Milk: cow

Processing: I couldn't find much on the processing, other than it has a washed, putty rind that.

Texture: semi-soft

Color: pale yellow, like butter

Rind: washed

Aroma: mild dairy, but not extremely aromatic

Taste: The flavor of ridder changes with time. From the time that the rind is broken by cutting, the flavor changes from mild nutty, to stronger nutty and tart, to a piquant/tart/dairy flavor. However, if you employ heat at all in your preparation, the flavor reverts to its original mild nuttiness.

Mouth feel: Creamy, heavy, similar to fresh mozzarella.

Notes: We served the ridder on a cheese plate at a picnic. About half of it was eaten, but its fresh flavor didn't wow anyone (especially when paired with stilton, appenzeller and gruyere). But, a few days later, I started to finish off the leftovers and I noticed the the flavor was different. I did a little research, and discovered that the flavor and aroma profile of ridder changes over time, but only after cutting. So, if you really want to experience this cheese, try it multiple times and pair it with fruit. We also tried a recipe using it in macaroni and cheese. The aroma lingered, but the aged flavors did not transfer well after heating. However, the creamy texture of the cheese turned a plebian treat into something much "fancier."

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Fruit of the Week: Paw Paw



Name: Paw-Paw

Brand: wild, kind of

Place of Purchase: Iowa State University campus, Ames, Iowa

Country/Region of Origin: Paw Paw trees grow all over Zones 5&6 in the United States.

Price in Iowa: free

Description: elongated ovular fruit, thin-skinned, soft and yellow when ripe.

Flavor: Sweet, creamy, with banana and pineapple flavors.

Aroma: Intensely sweet, with hints of banana, citrus and mango.

Texture/Mouth-feel: Once the outer skin is removed, the fruit is sticky, creamy and dense. Imagine avocado covered in honey and cream. The flesh in the center is a bit stringy or grainy, depending on the ripeness of the fruit

Notes:

The paw paw lives up to its nickname "the prairie banana." The mouth feel reminded me of custard. The flavor was a mix of banana, pineapple and vanilla. I was amazed that a fruit this sweet could grow right here in Iowa. There is very little acid in these fruits, and so long as your patient enough to wait for them to completely ripen on the tree, you will be treated to a wonderful, wild, creamy, sweet, fruit experience. This past weekend was the Paw-Paw Festival in Athens, OH. I guess they have everything from paw paw on a stick, to paw paw ice cream and fried paw paw. These plants are easy to grow, easy to care for, and will produce a ton of fruit in a few years. Plus, they're pretty, shady trees.

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Cheese of the week: Appenzeller


Name: Appenzeller "Classic" silver label

Place of Purchase: Wheatsfield Co-Op at 413 Douglas in Ames, Iowa

Country of Origin: Switzerland

Price in Iowa: $10.99/lb

Milk: Cow

Processing: cooked and pressed

Texture: semi-hard with small holes

Color: "straw" yellow

Rind: washed

Aroma: Diary (it is cheese) and musky floral scents.

Taste: Flavor depends on where you slice. Towards the center of the wheel, Appenzeller is a salty Swiss with a nutty aftertaste. But closer to the rind, floral notes enter the bouquet. Finally, you can taste the strong tang of white wine in cheese sliced right at the rind.
Mouth feel: firm at first, but yielding and creamy after a few moments on the tongue. Pieces taken closer to the rind offer a tingling sensation (probably from remnants of the brine wash)

Notes: Appenzeller is called "the King of Cheeses." Now, my forays into fruits have lead to an understanding that foods called "King" are not always the best or only regent of that cuisine. Still, Appenzeller is a very popular Swiss cheese worldwide. The secret of Appenzeller's popularity lies with its manufacturing process. Appenzeller is a typically Swiss cheese, made from scaled cow's milk. But after it has been pressed, it is soaked for months in a brine made from a secret mix of white wine and various herbs and spices.

Appenezller comes in three ages, Classic or Silver label, Gold Label and Extra or Black Label. Classic is only aged for three months, whileBlackLabel is aged for more than six. Gold Label falls somewhere in the middle. I had the Classic, and it was very flavorful. I can only imagine how much more flavor the cheese will pick up after a few more months absorbing the brine.

I first tried this cheese at a tasting party, so I only ate a little piece. The white wine and floral flavors exploded in my mouth. Once those flavors began to subside, the nutty/umami aftertaste provided a mellow finishing note. I loved it so much, I went out and bought my own. I shared it with some friends as part of an appetizer course, and through some experimentation we learned about the variation in flavor based on proximatey to the rind. Personally, I enjoy the flavor profile from slices in the middle region. The flavor of the cheese right next to the rind is overpowering, while the middle cheese is nothing special. It's good, but it's a mild Swiss.

So, I highly suggest that you try this cheese for yourself, share it with some friends, and reserve the middle slices for those you like best.

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Fruit of the Week: Tamarind




Name: Tamarind

Brand: Caravelle

Place of Purchase: Jung's Asian Market, Des Moines, IA

Country/Region of Origin: Thailand

Price in Iowa: $4.98/lb.

Description: It looks like a big, brown, woody pea pod. I could use another description, but it wouldn't be appetizing.

Flavor: Delicately sweet. Nutty. Woody. There is also a unique tang to the tamarind that makes it so desirable for many Asian and Latin American dishes. The variety I bought are the "sweet" tamarinds. There are sour varieties, as well, which are less ripe.

Aroma: wood and earth notes

Texture/Mouth-feel: Once you get the pod open and remove the vascular tissues, what is left is a thick pulp the consistency of fudge. You need to break off a piece of the pulp, pop it in your mouth, and work the seed(s) away from the pulp. Be sure to eat the delicate seed coat before you spit out the seeds. Where the pulp has a sweet-tangy-woody flavor, the seed coat is sweet and nutty.

Notes: I enjoy foods that kep your hands busy. Unshelled peanuts and pistachios can keep me happy for hours, and I'll eat a more modest portion than I would with the shelled variety. Tamarind falls into that category. First you need to remove the outer shell. Then you need to pull out the woody veins. After than, you need to work the seeds away from the pulp inside your mouth, and shave off the seed coat with your teeth. I ate two tamarinds in 20 minutes. Where I would have eaten the equivalent of 5-10 tamarinds if I was eating tamarind chutney or candy. They're a fun food, and very flavorful. In most of the civilzed world, tamarind is used in candy, beverage or sauce. Even here in the US, tamarind flavors are added to several condiments. Buy a box (they're cheap) and share them with family or friends. Just remember to lay down some napkins or paper towels to catch your shells and seeds.


Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Fruit of the Week: Pluot


Name: Pluot

Brand: Washington Organic (that's what's on the label)

Place of Purchase: Wheatsfield Coop Grocery in Ames, IA

Country/Region of Origin: Washington State, USA

Price in Iowa: 2.99/lb.

Description: It looks like a plum, but burgundy-colored and speckled with tiny orange stars. Also it is a lot firmer than a ripe plum. The meat inside is juicy and red red red.

Flavor: Super sweet. The skin still has the tang you would expect from a plum, but the sweetness washes it away fast.

Aroma: nothing strong, slightly flowery.

Texture/Mouth-feel: firm skin; the flesh inside is so tender, it may as well be jam.

Notes: I like the idea of hybrids. I enjoy the process of pollinating plants. The act of creation has never been so obvious and worthwhile. Bees and bats must live satisfying lives.

The pluot was first bred by Floyd Zaiger, founder of Zaiger's Genetics, as a cross between an apricot and a plum. When I first started putting my fruit list together, a number of fruits jumped out with a strange country of origin: Zaiger Genetics. Digging a bit deeper I discovered that Zaiger has bred apricots, nectarines, plums and peaches into a variety of new hybrids. Taking it once step further, his company continues to isolate new breeds of the original hybrids, selecting for color, flavor, sugar content, vitamin content and texture.

So, the pluot is my first Zaiger product. It knocked me out with sweetness, and it's red flesh was very appealing to the eye. The flavor was plum-like. I was expecting something more exotic, but there are over a dozen varieties of pluot (I got a Raspberry Jewel). Some of the others are bred for their fruitier flavor. I'll have to try those and see if they're any different.

A great, sweet fruit. Chilled in the summertime, I can't imagine a better treat.


Friday, September 4, 2009

Libation of the month: Guanabana nectar

Name: Guanabana (or Soursop) Nectar

Brand: Jumex

Place of Purchase: Pammel Grocery, Ames, Iowa

Full-screen

Country/Region of Origin: Product of Mexico

Tasting Conditions: Cold and straight out of the can.

Price in Iowa: $1.59

Description: I resembles thick pineapple nectar, with fruit pulp added.

Flavor: Very sweet with a mild latex aftertaste. The pulp didn't add much to the flavor. A few minutes after I finished the can, I began to detect a soapy finish that lingered for a while.

Mouth-feel: Thick and creamy. The pulp didn't bring much to the mouth feel, either. Imagine adding flavorless coconut to a sweet nectar.

Aroma: faint hints of citrus: guava, mango and pineapple.

Notes: The guanabana or soursop fruit is very popular in Latin America and the Philippines. You can eat the fruit plain after it ripens, but it is usually used to make juice, aqua frescas, candies, ice cream/sorbet, and other goodies. Something interesting that I discovered is that it is the fruit of an evergreen. Granted, I also learned that most tropical rainforest trees are technically evergreens. It is also a relative of the paw-paw, or prairie banana (which comes into season next week).

I will admit that the latex aftertaste and the soapy finish did not impress me. Also, considering that the guanabana contains a chemical that is linked with brain lesions, I might pass on trying this nectar a second time.


Tuesday, September 1, 2009

Fruit of the Week: Durian


Name: Durian

Brand: no stickers, definitely an import

Place of Purchase: Jung's Oriental Food Store, 1140 E 9th St, Des Moines, IA

Full-screen

Country/Region of Origin: probably Thailand or Vietnam

Price in Iowa: One small fruit cost me $20, but you still get a lot of fruit for that.

Description: It looks like a yellow-green football with spines. Inside, there is a creamy yellow, fibrous meat surrounding several large brown seeds.

Flavor: Very complex. The odor adds a sulfurous flavor similar to onion or garlic. The meat itself tastes like vanilla/almond custard. It is exquisitely sweet and creamy. There is also a meaty flavor underneath the sweetness.

Aroma: it depends on the fruit, but the riper it is the stinkier it is. It ranges from a hint of onion, to bad armpit body-odor, to refried rancid rat carcass with a gym sock garnish. Luckily, if you buy your fruit in the US it is typically frozen or chilled for shipping. This tends to kill much of the stronger aroma.

Texture: A combination of the fibrous aspects of squash mixed with creamy, pudding-like flesh in between the fibers.

Mouth-feel: Pudding, mousse, custard. So long as it's fresh. An older fruit will lose some of its moisture, and the flesh will lose its creaminess.

Notes: Durian is a love-it-or-leave-it fruit. Many people from Southeast Asia LOVE durian. In Asia, it is the best fruit you can get. They call it the King Fruit. Folks from Malaysia, Thailand and Vietnam grew up with fresh durian, durian cakes, durian jams, even durian chips.

You have to wonder how people got past the smell, though.

Fresh durian will scare away even the most adventurous epicure. Ripe off of the tree, it smells rotten to most people. The smell is so bad and so pervasive that you can't bring the fruit into public places.

Still, there are a lucky few (myself included) who don't recognize the taste of sulfur compounds as yucky. I love cabbage and brussel sprouts. I could eat garlic and onion all day long. It's a genetic defect, by it lets me enjoy stinky foods more than the average Joe. The same is the case with durian.

My suggestion is get a small one and a group of extreme friends and try it. If the stink wasn't a factor (and they have bred odor-free durian in Asia), it would be one of the most delicious and perfect foods you could ever eat. Not only is it a perfect combination of sweet and fat, but the protein that it contains is high in tryptophan. So, just like a turkey dinner, eating durian will increase your serotonin levels. This should give you a sugar buzz, followed by a calm sense of happiness and well-being. I like it a lot. I wouldn't eat it every day, but it is definitely worth one try.